<01>
This is a failed photo. Do you see the problem with it?

<02>
The improved photo looks as if it could be shown in a pictorial book. What's the difference?

Number <01> appears to be a failure because it is out of focus. The stag beetle also appears weak somehow because the composition is not good. As shown in <02>, viewing the stag beetle from an angle makes it look much better, doesn't it? Another problem of <01> is the dark shadow cast by the speedlight. Let's solve these problems one by one.

Insects are small, so it is necessary to let your camera get close to them (that is, use a close-up) if you want to make their images larger in the photo. Each lens has a minimum focal length, which is called the shortest shooting distance. When the distance between the camera and the subject is shorter than this limit, the resulting photo is out of focus or the shutter is disabled.
To take a photo of a small subject so that it looks large in the picture, you have various options: mounting a close-up lens, using the macro function of the zoom lens, replacing it with a macro lens, or using a close-up ring.
For more information on close-ups, see "Part 4: What is Focus Point?" in "Introduction to Single Lens Reflex Cameras."

• Introduction to Single Lens Reflex Cameras|What is Focus Point?

<03>
Mounting a close-up lens on the front of the lens can help focus on a small subject. There is an easier way to do this: try to take a photo with a magnifying glass placed in front of the lens of your camera.

<04>
If the shooting place is dark, whether in a room or in the forest, I recommend using the built-in speedlight. Its flash allows you to take a picture of an insect moving quickly, without camera shake.

<05>
Setting a relatively large aperture value (f-number) brings the whole image of insect into focus, from the head to the back end.

In the same fashion as when I took the failed photo shown in <01>, I used a close-up lens to bring my camera into focus. The subject is in focus but the composition is too simple. If the whole image of insect appears diagonally on the photo, it will look more interesting. Moreover, viewing the stag beetle from an angle rather than from above will give it a three-dimensional look.
The color of this stag beetle is very dark, which normally suggests that you should set the exposure compensation to a negative value. However, I obtained the best brightness at a positive exposure correction value because the beetle's glossy surface reflected the light emitted from the speedlight. Let's make adjustments so that the color and density of the stag beetle are true to its real image.

<06>
See the resulting photo on the monitor and correct the exposure to reproduce the color and density with high fidelity.

<07>
The stag beetle looks weak somehow because it is viewed from above.

<08>
Shooting from a diagonal direction improves the photo. I set +1 for the exposure compensation.

The built-in speedlight is easy to use, but its small illumination field can cause problems: strong dark shadows and glossy surfaces saturated with white. Here, I would like to show you how to take a picture with beautiful shadows and interesting textures by using a simple hand-made tool. This technique can be applied not only to insects but also to other small subjects.

<09>
This is made by shaping a wire (or a wire hanger) into a circle and attaching a plastic shopping bag on it with adhesive tape (an opaque vinyl sheet or tracing paper can be used instead).

<10>
Light emitted from the built-in speedlight is incident on the opaque vinyl sheet. The automatic mode can be used, but exposure correction is mandatory.

<11>
The dark shadow has disappeared and glossy surface has become softer. This technique is very easy, so you can apply the technique outdoors.

<12>
While the color of yukata is beautiful, the fireworks do not look much like themselves, somehow.

<13>
I took this photo with the speedlight disabled, that is, I used only the light emitted from the fireworks.

People enjoy fireworks in a dark place, so the only light is that emitted from them. If you try to take a picture of fireworks in the automatic mode, however, the built-in speedlight flashes automatically. The mixture of both lights makes the resulting photo appear different from what you actually see.
Accordingly, only by disabling the speedlight, you can obtain a faithful image of fireworks.

Fireworks are photographed in a dark place, which makes it difficult to set up your camera. Therefore, check every necessary setting in advance while you are in a bright place, so as not to become confused in the dark.

<14>
I turned ON the optional "Built-in AF-Assist Illuminator." This lamp emits light to bring the camera into focus in a dark place. When taking a picture of distant skyrocket, turn the option OFF and focus on infinity manually.

<15>
I turned ON the optional "Noise Filter." Noise is a phenomenon peculiar to digital cameras, in which a picture taken with a long exposure looks rough on the surface. This function removes the noise electronically. Note that the shutter is disabled for a while after shooting.

<16>
I set "P" (Program) to the exposure mode, and disabled the speedlight.

The intensity of the light emitted from the fireworks is not sufficient for taking their pictures. This fact decreases the shutter speed to some extent. Lower shutter speed leads to the risk of camera shake as well as subject shake. The former problem can be solved by fixing the camera to a tripod, but the latter problem still persists. When taking a picture of a person, you can instruct him/her not to move. When taking a shot of not so bright fireworks, you must set the ISO sensitivity to a high value.

<17>
Let's specify the ISO sensitivity at a high value, such as 800 or 1,600.

<18>
The subject will be blurred if it moves even when the camera is fixed to a tripod. The shutter speed may exceed one second.

<19>
The blurring is reduced because the shutter speed is high.

If you set "Multi-pattern" (default) for the exposure metering mode, your camera ignores the intensity of light emitted from fireworks and adjusts the exposure. This notwithstanding, you can set a positive value for the exposure compensation to further brighten the whole image of resulting photo.
While some fireworks emit a variety of colorful lights, the basic tone is orange. Therefore, setting the Bulb mode for the white balance makes the resulting photo look natural rather than orange-hued.

<20>
I set a positive value for the exposure compensation and set the Bulb mode for the white balance.

<21>
I used the fully automatic mode, which was able to brighten the color tone.

<22>
I corrected the exposure to increase the brightness, and adjusted the white balance to make the color tone natural.

Please have a good look at the following sample photos. You can see an invisible person and fireball. Even if you know how these photos were taken, you may feel a little scared. What kind of technique is necessary to take these pictures?

<23>
Invisible person. You can see a stairway and door through the person.

<24>
Fireball. This photo is rather artistic, isn't it?

These trick pictures can be taken thanks to a long exposure time. This means that the shutter is kept open for longer than several seconds. As a guide, I recommend that you begin with a shutter speed of around eight seconds.
This technique can be applied in a dark place but not in a bright location. You can also dim a light in a room if you want to use this technique inside. I recommend "S" (priority is given to the shutter speed) for the exposure mode.

<25>
I recommend you set "S" (priority is given to the shutter speed) for the exposure mode.

<26>
Set a shutter speed of about eight seconds.

<27>
Secure your camera to a tripod. In this case, the self-timer is useful.

If the shutter speed is eight seconds, the shutter remains open for eight seconds, and the camera continues taking the photo during that period. At this time, you take a picture of a person in the first half (about four seconds), and then let the subject go off the screen in the second half. The resulting photo shows a half-density person.
Various amounts of time allowed can change the density of the person. This effect varies depending on the colors and density of the background and the clothing of subject. Try various conditions.

<28>
The person stands without movement for four seconds after the shutter release is pressed.

<29>
After four seconds, the subject is off the screen.

<30>
The density of the person is half-a translucent person.

If you take a picture of a moving subject with a long exposure time, the resulting photo is blurred. However, as the moving distance is longer, the subject disappears from the resulting photo.
To tell the truth, a fireball is the locus of a moving flashlight, and the person moving the flashlight is off the picture because he/she is moving about. This is the point. If the flashlight is too bright, darken it, for example, by wrapping a sheet of paper around it.

<31>
Put a sheet of paper on the illuminated part of a flashlight to adjust the brightness. A sheet of colored cellophane will make the resulting photo more interesting.

<32>
Instruct your partner to point the flashlight at your camera and move around. The stationary person appears on the resulting photo, but the moving person does not.

<33>
The photo shows the locus of light emitted from the flashlight. It looks just like a fireball, doesn't it?