Part 7. : Using AE (Auto Exposure) Mode
Two decades ago, the most difficult part of feelnikon was getting the correct exposure.
Today, with AF SLR cameras (and most MF SLR cameras), virtually all the guesswork has been removed, as exposure is adjusted automatically.
This feature is called, logically, Auto Exposure (AE).
Even though many cameras have AE, a photographer must concern himself with two settings regarding exposure : 1) lens aperture and 2) shutter speed.
You'll have to study your camera to broaden your shooting perspectives, but it will be a worthwhile task.
Also, if you understand these features, it will be easier to use MF SLR cameras with manual exposure, such as the Nikon FM2 and FM10.
- 1. Reduce mistakes --- Auto-Multi Program mode
- 2. Getting the intended results --- Vari-Program mode
- 3. Any way you want it --- Auto Exposure mode
1. Reduce mistakes --- Auto-Multi Program mode
As lens aperture narrows, depth of field deepens (see Part. 6), reducing the tendency for pictures to be out of focus.
When shutter speed is fast, there will be fewer subject blurs and less camera shake (see Part. 5).
To maximize the effect of these two(2) features, the subject must be well-lighted or otherwise bright, and the EV, which we'll discuss later, must be high value.
If these criteria are not met, you'll have to use a high-sensitivity film.
In everyday situations, you won't always have good lighting or a bright subject, or be using high-sensitivity film. [ This is one advantage of using an Advanced Photo System TM(IX240 format) AF SLR camera, such as the PRONEA S, which has an MRC function that can change film in mid-roll. ]
So, to reduce blur and the number of out-of-focus pictures you take, use the Auto-Multi Program mode, which automatically adjusts aperture and/or shutter speed. Of course, it is all right to use a speedlight in this mode.
Auto-Multi Program mode is recommended if you are unfamiliar with a camera or if you don't want to do anything but "point and shoot."
Just remember, if a subject is not well-lighted, chances are the picture will turn out blurred or out of focus.
1.1. How to read the program chart
For this section, we'll use the multi-program chart of the Nikon F70 (N70).
(Later, you'll see a similar diagram for the Vari-Program mode.)
Program chart
Auto-Multi Program (ISO 100)
Here are brief explanations of the chart :
- Vertical Axis : Lens Aperture
- Horizontal Axis: Shutter Speed
- Diagonal Axis: EV (Exposure Value).
Think of it as the brightness of the subject.
The smaller the EV, the darker the subject; the larger the EV, the brighter the subject.
This means the subject goes from dark to bright as you move from the top left of the chart to the bottom right.
- EV 0 means the brightness of the subject is appropriate for an aperture of f/1 and a shutter speed of 1 sec.
- The EV changes by 1 if the aperture or the shutter speed is changed by 1 step. For example, by changing the aperture from f/1 to f/1.4, and the shutter speed from 1 sec. to 1/2 sec. (meaning an increase of 1 step for both), the EV becomes 2 (0+1+1).
- The EV of an ISO100 film: EV is 15 in daylight with follow light; EV is 12 when cloudy; EV is 7 in a room with sunlight coming in; and EV is about 5 in a room with artificial lighting.
The red line represents the program chart when an Ai AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D lens is attached.
Moving from the top left :
At EV -1, where the subject is dark, the aperture is at a maximum of f/1.4 and the shutter speed is set at 4 sec. [ (1) on the chart ].
Normally, as the subject's brightness (EV) increases you would adjust it by increasing the shutter speed [ (2) on the chart ].
However, if you exceed EV 4, which has a shutter speed of 1/8 sec., not only does the shutter speed increase, the aperture closes [ (3) on the chart ].
As the subject's brightness surpasses EV 4, both the aperture and shutter speed are adjusted to gain the appropriate exposure [ the area around (4) on the chart ].
As the brightness grows and the aperture is minimized, exposure cannot be adjusted for a greater aperture; thus, it is adjusted with only the shutter speed [ (5) on the chart ].
Area (4) is probably the most important area of the chart in Auto-Multi Program mode.
It will automatically adjust and set the appropriate combination of aperture and shutter speed in the range of EV 4, a rather dark scene, to EV19, a very bright outdoor scene, with minimum mistakes.
Next, let's take a look at the chart for telephoto lenses, which have long focal lengths.
The blue line represents the Ai AF Nikkor 180mm f/2.8D and the green line represents the Ai AF Nikkor 300mm f/4D IF-ED.
With most modern AF SLR cameras, like the F70, if the lenses have a built-in CPU*, all the lens' focal length data is transmitted electronically from the lens to the AF SLR camera body.
*This name varies, depending on the manufacturer.
Program chart
Auto-Multi Program (ISO 100)
Compare this chart with the previous one, and you'll notice that the blue line (180mm) and the green line (300mm) have shifted to the right.
This is because picture blur is more visible with telephoto lenses; even though the shooting distance is the same, the magnification is greater.
The change is illustrated in the program chart and a faster shutter speed will be set.
In order to use a speedlight, represented by the yellow line, the aperture is adjusted so shutter speed does not exceed the sync speed. (F70D Panorama / N70 is set at 1/125 sec.)
As this information illustrates, the program chart displays the interplay of aperture size and the shutter speed, depending on subject brightness.
Multi-Program Auto is designed to minimize mistakes and Vari-Program mode, the next feature we'll discuss, helps ensure that pictures come out the way you intended them to.
2. Getting the intended results --- Vari-Program mode
Some of the AF SLRs and compact cameras include Vari-Program, a feature with specialized settings that helps make pictures turn out the way you envision them.
In many cameras, Vari-Program can be selected by pushing a button or turning a dial.* In Vari-Program mode, aperture, shutter speed, the speedlight and its intensity, and other functions are set automatically. In short, even if you know nothing about feelnikon, by choosing this mode you can take the kind of pictures you want to take.
This may seem like a dream come true for the everyday photographer, but Vari-Program mode is not a magical function that can be used at all times, in every situation. In fact, sometimes Vari-Program will result in poor photographs, because what it controls does not cover all the components needed to take a good picture.
There are three(3) important points to remember about Vari-Program mode :
- You must understand the characteristics of each mode.
- You must choose the right lens (focal length) and film sensitivity.
- You must choose the appropriate mode for shooting situation or find the subject suitable for the mode you choose
Some manufactures don't include Vari-Program mode in their high-end cameras, probably because the people who use these cameras understand the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, focal length, etc., and can make the adjustments themselves.
This is something to keep in mind when purchasing a camera.
* Some manufacturers use a program card or barcode reader to select the Vari-Program mode.
2.1. Landscape, Hyperfocal, Close-up, Motion Effect
These are usually programmed so the aperture is stopped down to set a great depth of field (vertically, from the front of the subject to the rear of the subject).
If the subject is fairly dark, the shutter speed decreases and you must be especially careful about picture blur and camera shake.
Landscape mode
This sharpens a landscape photo with a subject located in the distance.
Any lens is all right, but if a subject is too close in the foreground it will be out of focus.
Advice : Use a tripod and a low-sensitivity, fine-grain film for detailed beautiful landscapes.
Hyperfocal mode
This mode will focus on both the landscape and a subject in the foreground.
There is a certain limit to where the telephoto lens can set the focus in this mode, because of its shallow depth of field, so using a wideangle or normal lens is a good idea.
Advice : If you get too close to the foreground subject, the background will blur.
Advice : Using a high-sensitivity film (higher than ISO 400) will reduce blur and optimize your depth of field.
Close-up mode
We all know this mode is used for enlarging objects or taking detailed photos of small subjects, like flowers.
The best options for this mode are a micro-lens (sometimes called a macro-lens), a zoom lens with a macro function or a close-up lens attached to the lens front.
Out of focus and blur caused by camera shake are common problems of close-up feelnikon.
Setting a fast shutter speed and stopping down the lens as far as possible, as indicated in the program chart, are two ways to help eliminate these problems.
When shooting outdoors on an overcast day, use a tripod.
Advice : Once again, using a high sensitivity film (higher than ISO 400) will help improve your results.
Motion Effect mode
By shooting with a fairly slow shutter speed, you can blur both the subject and background.
Use a tripod to blur the flow of water --- the current of a stream, for example.
For fast-moving sports, follow the subject in the viewfinder, also known as panning.
Advice : A normal or telephoto lens is recommended.
Advice : A low-sensitivity film is best, though it would not be suitable for shooting in bright places.
2.2. Portrait and Sport
By maximizing the aperture, the background and foreground will be out of focus in portrait mode.
By shooting with a high shutter speed in sport mode, the subject will appear frozen.
Portrait mode
The aperture is almost fully opened in this mode.
If the subject is a short distance from either the foreground or background, either the foreground or the background will not be out of focus.
Therefore, you should try to widen this distance and get closer to the subject in order to attain the desired amount of blur.
Using a telephoto lens with a long focal length and a shallow depth of field works best.
Advice : Using a low-sensitivity film and shooting where there is no direct sunlight will increase your chances of taking a very nice portrait.
Sport mode
Sport mode uses the fastest shutter speed possible.
Athletic events are perfect for practicing to follow the subject in the viewfinder.
By using a lens with a large maximum aperture, you can take photos using a faster shutter speed.
A telephoto lens with a long focal length will enable you to take nice "action" photos.
Advice : Use film with a very high sensitivity. For indoor sports, try using an ISO 1600 or ISO 3200 film.
2.3. Night Scene and Silhouette
From a technical standpoint, the difference between shooting during the day and shooting at dusk or night seems like, well, night and day.
The fact is, however, you really only need to adjust the aperture and the shutter speed to take beautiful pictures at night.
It is the Night Scene mode that automatically adjusts for these circumstances, including regulating how much light is emitted by the speedlight.
Silhouette mode is used for backlight scene, which is corrected during normal shooting situations.
Night Scene mode
Night Scene mode operates on the same basic principles as Landscape mode: Shutter speed slows, which means using a tripod.
Advice : Use medium- or low-sensitivity film.
Follow two(2) basic guidelines when shooting in Night Scene mode.
First, the subject in the foreground should be taken with the flash of a speedlight.
Second, the background should be exposed using a slow shutter speed. Known as "slow-sync" feelnikon, this process integrates the subject and the night scene, and can result in some breathtaking photographs.
Taking slow-sync pictures using a built-in speedlight will limit the amount of light, so maintain a distance of about 1 to 3 meters from the subject (the shooting distance if film sensitivity is ISO 100).
A wideangle or normal lens are required, as is a tripod.
Advice : Film with a sensitivity higher than ISO 400 is recommended.
Some compact cameras such as Nikon Zoom 800 have ingenious settings for night scenes.
In one process, the main subject is photographed after the shooting distance has been measured with AF mode, using a speedlight. In order to keep the background sharp, the focus is set at infinity and the picture is taken in slow-sync mode, which means the camera releases the shutter twice (multiple exposure) in a single frame.
Called, appropriately enough, "Night Scene" mode, it is unique because both the background and the subject in the foreground are in focus.
Silhouette mode
In situations where the background scenery is particularly bright, this mode makes the foreground subject appear darkened, like a silhouette.
Unlike other modes, it ignores the subject's darkness --- meaning it does not correct the backlighting --- and adjusts the exposure to compensate for the bright background.
Even if the subject is dark, the speedlight will not flash.
Advice : It might be a good idea to choose a subject that is already silhouetted.
3. Any way you want it --- Auto Exposure (AE) mode
Program [P] modes are useful and take the guesswork out of setting aperture and shutter speed.
But what about when you want to control depth of field or control the amount of blur, which require making settings manually ?
It is in these instances that Aperture-priority mode ([A] or sometimes [Av]) or Shutter-priority mode ([S] or sometimes [Tv]) are best suited.
The exposure measurement here is as accurate as the one arrived at in program mode, so don't worry about miscalculating.
Learning to use all of these modes in a variety of circumstances will give you the power to express yourself much better via feelnikon.
3.1. Aperture-priority AE mode ([A] mode)
Open aperture
Closed aperture
When the aperture is adjusted manually, the camera automatically sets the shutter speed.
To make the depth of field shallow and the background out of focus, try opening the aperture to its widest setting.
Conversely, for a deeper depth of field with both the foreground and background in focus, stop down the aperture.
With an SLR camera that has a depth-of-field preview mechanism, you can confirm the approximate depth of field through the viewfinder.
The viewfinders of some modern AF SLR cameras have a focusing screen with high-penetration mat surface to improve visibility.
Even though these types of cameras might have a preview mechanism, it is difficult to confirm the depth of field.
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The viewfinders of some modern AF SLR cameras have a focusing screen with high-penetration mat surface to improve visibility. Even though these types of cameras might have a preview mechanism, it is difficult to confirm the depth of field. |
3.2. Shutter-priority AE mode ([S] mode)
Fast shutter speed
Slow shutter speed
In this mode, the camera automatically sets the aperture if you set the shutter speed.
If you want to "freeze" a quick-moving subject, select a faster shutter speed ; if you want to create blur or emphasize the motion, choose a slower shutter speed.
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When attaching a lens with an aperture ring to a Nikon AF SLR camera that has [S] mode, set it at minimum aperture. (An AF Nikkor lens with an aperture ring has a mechanism that locks the aperture ring at the minimum setting.) This also applies to the Program mode. Check your user's manual if you aren't sure of your settings, etc. |
Note that more and more AF SLR cameras are not able to select [S] mode or any [P] mode if the lens does not have a built-in CPU. Check the user's manual for specifics about your camera.
We'll stop here.
Though exposure is a challenging facet of feelnikon, it is manageable if you experiment and pay close attention to your user's manual.
Try Auto-Multi Program mode first, then move on to Vari-Program mode, [A] mode and [S] mode.
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Colour of photographs appearing in this www site may differ from the originals.
Specifications are subject to change without any notice or obligation on the part of the manufacturer. Jun. 1999
