Part 4. : What is Focus Point ?
In feelnikon, "focus" means the "focusing point", and usually it means how sharp the picture will appear.
However, you are sometimes impressed by the out-of-focus pictures. Or you sometimes say a phrase like "the story is out-of-focus", thus make you wonder what "focus" truly means.
Here in this issue, we'll find out what "focusing" a camera means, and how we are able to take focused pictures.
1. What is focus ?
A black sheet of paper will burn if a sunlight is collected on one spot. In English, the word "focus" comes from focus, which means "fire" or "furnace" in Latin.
Thus, perhaps it could have been derived from this background.
Here, we will try to understand the general meaning of "focus" and what does a camera do and what can we do in order to set the "focus" ?
1.1. Plane of sharpest focus and depth of field
First, take a look at the picture of "plane of sharpest focus and depth of field" on the right.
It is a figure of focus ring of a lens being set at 1 meter (approx. 3.3 ft.).
In this case, the best focusing position is at 1 meter away from the camera (or more precisely, 1 meter away from the film surface).
This means that all the subjects that lie on that plane are the "best-focused" images.
By adjusting and controlling the focus ring, this plane can come close or move far away.
But generally, this plane does not become curved or tilted.
Description of the above figure (right hand up corner)
a. Further the subject is, the greater it becomes out-of-focus.
b. depth of field (area with minimal blur and appears to be focused)
c. plane of sharpest focus (can obtain best focus).
d. Closer the subject is, the greater it becomes out-of-focus.
e. Lens's focus ring set at 1m.
When the subject is not at the plane of sharpest focus, then it becomes out-of-focus.
Further away from the plane means a more blurred image.
But, with only slightly away from the plane means that the blur is incredibly small, and it appears "focused" to the human's eyes.
The range where focus "seems to be set" is known as the "Depth Of Field".
The D. O. F. (depth of field) varies depending on three elements :
- lens's focal length,
- aperture, and
- camera-to-subject distance (shooting distance).
1.2. Focusing mechanism
This is a picture taken where the subject approached the camera from "infinity" shooting distance, 1.5 m(approx. 5 ft.), and to 0.45 m(approx.1.5 ft.).
Notice how the length of the lens (extension) changes .
See the above illustration of "plane of sharpest focus and depth of field", and observe how the background is blurred.
Infinity
1.5 m ( 5 ft.)
0.45 m (1.5 ft.)
As been said earlier, the focus will be set by measuring the distance from the main subject and adjusting the lens's focus ring to the appropriate number (but it has to be accurate).
Then, what changes with the lens when the focus ring is adjusted ?
If you have a lens in front of you, try turning the focus ring. Do you see any changes ?
With most lenses, the length of the lens (or the lens barrel) simply changes.
The "basics" of basics is the same as seen with the experiment done in the 2nd. issue, regarding the magnifying glass.
In order to shoot the subject at infinity distance, it just needs to make distance between the lens (more precisely, the lens's principal point) and the film equal to the focal length.
As the subject moves closer, the entire lens needs to be extended in order to create a distance between the film and the lens.
There are different mechanisms regarding focusing, but in the end it comes down to simply changing the distance between the lens and the film.
By doing so, the position of the plane with sharp focus is altered.
Within some zoom lenses and telephoto lenses, however, the lens does not "appear" to be changing its length, even if the focus ring is rotated.
This is known as the "internal focusing" type (it is indicated as "IF" for all Nikkor lenses).
The front group of the lens stays fixed, but the smaller lens group at the rear part is adjusted to set the focus (it is sometimes called "internal focus", or "rear focus", depending on the manufacturer or the position of the lenses).
Compared to the conventional lens, which moves all lens elements to adjust the focus, the optical design of the "IF" lens is very difficult.
But since the length of the lens does not change, the weight balance does not shift so much, and the focus ring is well-positioned, so it requires few efforts to set the focus.
Because of this benefit, zoom lenses and telephoto lenses with bright aperture, mostly AF lenses, adapt this mechanism.
2. How to focus
With SLR cameras in general, the image that will be exposed on the film could be seen on a focusing screen by the direct reflection of a reflex mirror.
So it is not really necessary to measure the distance between the subject.
All you need to do is adjust the lens's focus ring and make the subject look sharp in the viewfinder.
This is how a manual-focus (MF) SLR camera is focused.
By analyzing the image seen on the viewfinder that is coming through the reflex mirror, and adjusting the focus ring electronically to get the clearest image is a regular AF SLR mechanism (of course, there are lenses where the focus ring might not rotate).
This analyzing mechanism has adapted several advanced technology.
However, even with these advanced technologies, the sharpest focus can be obtained only on a plane.
And after all, the final focus decision is up to the photographer.
There aren't any cameras that will adjust the focus automatically and lets you take a "masterpiece" picture.
Here, we will briefly mention the basics on how to adjust focus when using an SLR camera.
2.1. In case of AF SLR cameras
For AF SLR cameras, the focus is adjusted automatically to make the subject in the focus area, seen in the center of the viewfinder (focusing screen), appear sharp.
However, this function varies depending on the focus mode selected. Choose the appropriate mode depending on the shooting situation.
2.1.1 [S] Single Servo AF (name varies from manufacturers)
By situating the subject in the focus area and pressing the shutter release button half-way, the camera will automatically focus the subject and locks the focus.
The shutter cannot be released until the focus is locked, but you can change the composition of the picture while pressing the shutter release button half-way.
It is good for shooting still subjects with different composition.
2.1.2. [C] Continuous Servo AF (name varies from manufacturers)
While the shutter release button is pressed half-way, it will keep on focusing the subject within the focus area.
When the button is pressed all the way, the shutter is released, whether it is focused within the focus area or not.
It is good for moving subject, or when prioritizing instant moments.
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By the way, Nikon F60 (N60 in the U.S.) and PRONEA S has a mechanism called "Auto Servo AF", which is a combination of the characteristics of "S" and "C". The camera automatically determines if the subject is still or in motion. For still subjects, the focusing becomes "S" mode, thus focus lock can be used. |
2.1.3. [M] Manual mode
You have to adjust the focus ring by yourself, by looking in the focusing screen.
Some lenses can adjust focus by the help of a triangular indicator, where the subject within the focus area is adjusted by the focus ring, and when it is correctly focused, "O" mark will appear (known as "Electronic Rangefinder").
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Although Nikon's AF-S Nikkor lenses has a built-in Silent Wave Motor (SWM), it does not use batteries from the camera body in [M] Manual Focus mode, which seems like a normal feature, yet it is not. |
2.1.4. Other modes
With the Nikon F5 and F100, there are 5 focus areas : one in the center and the others around it.
The photographer can set the focus using the focus area selector and choosing either of the 5 focus areas (single-area AF mode).
Also, by analyzing and using the data achieved from the five(5) focus area, it can react to the sudden movement of the subject (Dynamic AF mode).
Photo 2.
Focus mode selector of
Nikon F100
Photo 3.
AF sensor position of F5
(Image picture)
Photo 3.a.
Focus area selector of Nikon F5
Photo 4.
AF-L button of Nikon F100
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Well, these are the basics.
Depending on the model, there are different functions, so use these modes efficiently depending on circumstances.
2.2. In case of MF SLR cameras
Generally, it is the same as the aforementioned AF SLR camera's manual focusing.
Look at the viewfinder image and adjust the focus ring so that the subject may appear sharp.
But this is difficult, and it requires a bit of experience, as well as patience.
Generally, a MF SLR camera is focused easily using split image and/or microprism in the center of the matte surface of the focusing screen.
This is the same as the focus area of an AF SLR, thus if you want to change the construction, you must first adjust the focus and then determine the construction.
Once you get used to it, you might be able to adjust focus using the matte surface, a frosted glass around the screen. It is difficult to focus, especially with wideangle lenses (the focal length is short, thus it has deep depth of field).
Photo 5.a
Viewfinder of Nikon FM2
(New FM2 in the Japan(Nippon))
Fig. 2.
Interchangeable focusing screens of FM2
Left: Split-micro type (Type K2: Standard model)
Center: Matte type (Type B2: Optional)
Right: Matte type with grid pattern (Type E2: Optional)
If you do not know the correct focus, then adjust the focus ring widely, look at the focusing screen to check the focus, then gradually narrow the adjustment range.
2.3. Useful accessories for focusing
2.3.1. Eyepiece correction lenses
With SLR cameras, there are accessories called "eyepiece correction lenses" (Photo 6 : right).
By attaching this with an diopter appropriate for your eyesight, the viewfinder image will appear clearer.
For nearsighted people, use a lens indicated "-".
For farsighted (presbyopia) people, use a lens indicated "+".
The larger the number, the stronger the diopter is. The unit is "diopter", which is the same as the degrees of the eyeglasses, but this value is the sum of the lens and the body's optical design.
In order to choose the appropriate eyepiece correction lens, you need to visit the camera stores and actually attach it to the camera.
Since it is not that expensive, you might want to purchase several eyepieces with different diopter.
Then you might be able to choose a suitable eyepiece depending on your eye condition.
With Nikon F5, F100, F60 (N60 in the U.S.), and PRONEA S, there is a built-in diopter adjustment on the viewfinder.
Adjust the knob (Photo 7.: left) or a sliding control lever until the indications on the focusing screen appear well-focused.
Unless the built-in diopter adjustment is not capable of covering your extremely near- or farsightedness, use the eyepiece correction lenses as well.
Unfortunately, astigmatism cannot be fixed (will there ever be an eyepiece correction lens for astigmatism, in which, by adjusting to rotate a cylindrical lens depending on the rate of astigmatism, is attached to an eyepiece).
2.3.2. Right-angle viewing finder and attachment
When shooting a close-up of a flower on the earth surface or shooting a copy , it is difficult to see the viewfinder image due to the camera position.
With cameras like the Nikon F5 or F3 series, which can change the finder, it is better to switch to Waist-Level Finder or High-Magnification Finder.
For cameras that cannot change the finder, attach an angle finder (Photo 8) to the eyepiece.
If you attach Nikon Right-Angle Viewing Attachment DR-4 (with DR-12), you can see the viewfinder image from above the camera.
2.3.3. Eyepiece Magnifier
If you want to adjust focus using a super-telephoto lens or in close-ups, switch to a High-Magnification Finder if the finder is interchangeable.
For cameras that cannot change the finder, attach a "eyepiece magnifier" (Photo 9 : Nikon Eyepiece Magnifier DG-2) onto the eyepiece.
This is like a loupe that can enlarge the center of the screen.
With an eyepiece magnifier that has a hinge, you can fold it to see the entire screen.
3. How to take close-ups
If you get too close to the subject, there is a limit to the camera lens's focusing distance.
This distance (from the film to the subject) is known as the "closest shooting distance", and is indicated as one of the lens's feature in a catalog.
I may add that with most digital (still) cameras, the "closest distance" is known as the distance between the front of the lens to the subject.
If you use a "Micro Nikkor lens" (known as "macro lens" to other manufacturers), you can further approach the subject to take high-quality pictures even with a close-up.
However, other than this, close-up pictures can be taken with standard lenses. Let me introduce few methods.
Although the combination of the lens and accessories might reduce the image quality, there is not really much to worry about.
If you want to minimize the decrease in image quality, then be aware of the combination or the order of combination.
Photo 10.
Shooting at Ai AF 50mm f/1.8S lens's closest shooting distance (45 cm / 1.5 ft.)
(the following sample pictures will be using this lens , together with different accessories)
3.1. Close-up attachment lenses
In simple term, this is a convex lens., which is like a camera lens's farsighted spectacle.
Normally with the genuine model made by the camera manufacturer, the image quality reduction is made to be minimized.
Choose the appropriate lens, depending on the focusing distance of the aggregate or the attachment size (other companies call it "filter size").
With Nikon's close-up lenses, the larger the number of the product, the closer you can shoot.
One advantage of this close-up attachment lens is that it can use auto exposure and autofocus functions.
It becomes efficient with long focal length, like the telephoto lenses.
Photo 11.
Close-up lens (No.1) + Ai AF 50mm f/1.8S
Even if you don't have a close-up attachment lens, a magnifying glass can become a handy tool.
Simply put the magnifying glass in front of the lens to take close-up pictures (in this case, use it in MF mode)
3.2. Extension rings (Close-up rings)
As indicated earlier, further the lenses are from the film, it is able to focus a near subject.
Thus, by placing a hollow ring (extension ring) between the lens and the camera body, the lens can be further extended for close-up shooting.
There are various lengths, and it can also be used by combining them.
Photo 12.
Auto Extension Ring PK-13 + Ai AF 50mm f/1.8S
The image becomes darker when approaching the subject closer (higher magnification), thus you have to be very careful with camera shake and focusing.
3.3. Bellows attachment
This is an elastic bellow-type attachment placed between the camera body and lens, and it can extend the length of the lens.
This allows flexible close-up shooting, as well as making duplicates of a positive film using a slide copy device (Nikon Slide Coping Adapter PS-6).
Photo 13.
Bellows Attachment PB-6 + Ai AF 50mm f/1.8S
With a combination of a Lens Reversing Ring BR-2A , which will be mentioned later, it allows enlarged shooting at high quality (see Photo 14.).
Although it is a bit troublesome, it is nothing really difficult.
3.4. Lens reversing ring
By attaching a normal or wideangle lens onto an SLR camera reversibly, you can take remarkably close-up pictures.
Try holding a wideangle lens, bring it to the camera reversibly, and see it through the viewfinder.
Since these lenses are optically designed so that the principal point of the lens is at the back portion of the lens (retrofocus type), simply reversing the lens will make it seem like as if the length of the lens has expanded.
The macro adapter ring is an accessory which enables the lens to be mounted reversibly by using the lens's front attachment screw (used to attach filters, etc.).
In the Nikon product lineup, Lens Reversing Ring BR-2A is the accessory.
However, the camera cannot adjust the focus since the lens is reversibly attached. You have to adjust the camera position to focus.
Also, most automatic functions of the camera cannot be used.
Together with the previously mentioned bellows attachment, it becomes easier to focus and shoot enlarged pictures (See Photo 14.b.).
Photo 14.a.
Lens Reversing (Macro Adapter) Ring BR-2A + Ai AF 50mm f/1.8S
Photo 14.b.
Bellows Focusing Unit PB-6 + BR-2A + Ai AF 50mm f/1.8S
In this case, by setting the lens reversibly, the distance between the lens front and the subject (working distance) can be made longer, and it can take enlarged picture at high quality.
This issue will stop here. Many of you might think that it is the camera which does the focusing, but in the end, it is done by the photographer.
There are different methods and traits of focusing, especially when shooting close-ups. It is quite exciting simply taking enlarged pictures of a small subject. I want all of you to try it out.
In the end, I would also like to say that there is a unique character with unfocused pictures as well. Out-of-focus pictures are not worthless pictures. Shooting pictures are something to be enjoyed.
Names of products in this article were being used in Japan(Nippon) at the time of writing.
Products, brands and companies names are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective companies.
Colour of photographs appearing in this www site may differ from the originals.
Specifications are subject to change without any notice or obligation on the part of the manufacturer. Mar. 1999


